Category Archives: Dempster Highway

Crazy guys on bikes

“Do you have my chocolate?” the half naked man queries me.
I’ve stopped my Mini on the Dempster Highway, alarmed by the site of this bedraggled bicyclist in the arctic wilderness.
“Your what? Are you okay?”
He slumps down on his bike, “Oh, I thought you were my chocolate. I gave $10 to a passing car, asking them [...]

The Arctic Ocean! I made it!

I made it to the Arctic Ocean!
Since there is no road access to the ocean in the summer, I had to fly the last 60 miles to Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, a tiny Inuvialuit community right on the ocean.
Rain delayed my flight, so I camped in the parking lot of the tour operator that was booking [...]

End of the Dempster!

I’ve finished the Dempster! I’ve got a busted tail pipe, broken exterior steps, and maybe one slow leak in a rear tire, but I finished it!
I am exhausted.
I will head to the airport tomorrow to find out about flights. I’m only 60 miles from the Arctic Ocean!
Here are some pictures and videos of today’s drive. [...]

The Arctic Circle!

What a drive today. That was tough.
I had no idea what six and a half hours of washboard, potholed, slick, muddy road driving was like.
And, now, I do.
I get to do that three more times and I think I’m done for life!



After the first 100 miles, I didn’t think I was going to make it. [...]

Mile Zero of the The Dempster Highway

“Did you just come off the Dempster?”
“Yes!” the man washing his mud caked RV angrily barks back at me.
More tentatively, “uh, how was it?”
“Dreadful! Awful! It rained all the way up and all the way back! We almost went right off the road! It was awful!”
I didn’t know a road could make a person so [...]