Living In My Car

Mary

Uh oh. My guess is you have a short with a bare wire. A coffee pot has a fairly large draw. If you had overloaded the circuit, the breaker would have tripped. I suspect the breaker is not healthy at this point – probably happened when it tripped on its own. It is probably behind your wall skin. If the wires weren’t well protected, the shimmying of moving puts the wiring at greater risk of abrading. Don’t use your electrics until you get this fixed.

Glad you are ok.

David Ganous

Jen its time to pull that outlet and see whats going on. Turn off all power to the coach, take a screwdriver and remove the screws, pull the outlet out of the wall. Im betting that the back of the outlet will be toast, and the wires melted. This is a sign of too much current draw, loose or weak connection. Cut the outlet out and replace, cut the wires back to expose good wire (not burnt or melted). I suspect that the wire will be 14 guage wire which is good for 15 amps. 12 guage wire will be good for 20 amps. I imagine that what happened was you had a loose connection to begin with, then added the coffee pot which pulled too much current or as much as the wire could handle. Did you ever notice the cord to the coffee pot getting hot? It may be time for a new coffee pot too. Dont freak out over this, you can fix it. Get yourself a good volt/ohm/amp meter and use it. Once you get everything fixed, measure the current draw (amps) with the meter and it will tell you whats going on.
Good luck!
Southernkilowatt aka David Ganous

David Ganous

That appears to be 14 guage wire. Replace the outlet, buy a new coffee pot and your back in business. BUT- let the RV tech do it if you dont feel comfortable. @Wil- I see no harm in doing as you suggest with some resistance readings to confirm that the wiring is ok. Much better to be safe than sorry. @ Mary- I doubt very seriously that the wiring in the wall is damaged, the damage is due to improper wire size and too much current draw at the recept, and I’ll add that I DO NOT like stab-lok recepts (the kind where you poke the wire in the back and a spring loaded clip holds it in place) and I much prefer the recepts with SCREWS to terminate the wire to. With that said, I think your problem was three fold, stab-lok recepts, too much current draw, and 14 guage wire.
I will make a post on RV.net about Stab-lok recepts and let you read for yourself what people think of them.

I think you are on the right track Jen. Good luck!
Dave

Rachael Darland

I have an extra tea pot I would trade for the coffee grinder you gave me! Low tech but safe and dependable. Hope to see ya soon down the road somewhere.
Rach

Rae

Nothing useful to add, just wanted to say I’m rootin’ for ya.

Merikay

Be careful, but don’t be afraid to test it out.

Anita

I had that same thing happen in my house last year. Smelled burning. Assumed a bad light bulb. Next day, I saw sparks when I plugged in a lamp.

I used a mini fridge on that outlet. The circuit for that room had been tripped many times. I guess one too many.

We just replaced the insides with new non-melted stuff and all has been good since.

Barb

Glad you are safe. I know you will get to the root of the problem. I am checking our fire extinguisher as soon as I am done with this post!!!!

Good luck.

Ron W

OK, one comment about the electrical. I see in the picture the wire uses the push in contact method and not using the screw method on the outlet. I would recommend only using the screws for a more secure connection.

Code allows you to use the push in method for 14ga wire but for 12ga wire which must be used in kitchens and must use the screw method, in fact the push method is only large enough for 12ga wire.

It is also interesting that this rule does not apply to RV’s as you can see 14ga wire is allowed in the kitchen area.

Question? Do you use that outlet for an electric heater at times?

Trish

What Ron said.
You said that receptacle is the third in the series, then all 3 are wired from the breaker box on the same 12-ga wire.
“Normal” receptacles, 14-ga wire, and voila –coffee.

Steve

Hi Jennifer,

Aren’t you back at your hubby’s place again? I could’ve sworn you had an electrical issue on your last visit there. I’m wondering if the problem your RV is suffering from may be from too much juice coming from hubby’s house?

After things are repaired maybe adding a surge protector might be in order.

Steve

Kevin

Do your self a favor gal and when your electrician is there have her replace all your outlets so that the wire is connected to the outlet with a screw, this will make for a better connection and you can get a better nights sleep.

Mary

An emergency fire extinguisher is baking soda. Never ever use flour – it’s highly flammable.

Going out to shake my extingusher. Good info.

Derek

Hi Jen. Arriving late here, and enjoying your blog, so I’ll put you some knowledge concerning the electrical goblins for future use. I am indeed an electrician, and have persuaded the majority of systems I’ve encountered to behave and not petulantly snuff out peoples’ lives and property. (Though everyone has bad days- just kidding.) Capacitors degrade and fail mainly due to age and overvoltage- spikes, if you will. Homes are subjected to these daily, some “normally” because of frequent and regular power grid changes, others not so much, due to foul weather (lightning strikes, etc.) and other stuff you don’t need to know about. Obtaining your Mini power from a residence opens your door, so to speak, with its power quality issues, good and bad. A QUALITY surge protector, installed AT your main panel will reduce these troubles to a minimum, but NOTHING will stop a direct or near lightning strike, though this is relatively uncommon. These voltage fluctuations may result in circuit breakers tripping in some instances as well. Extreme temperatures, moisture, and vibration are your enemies too. An RV is not where the government would install nuclear fail-safe equipment, in other words. Your receptacle problem was probably due to one or more loose connections that gradually became more severe as you placed a load (heater, appliance) on the wiring- they heated, cooled, heated, repeat, which causes not so tight connections to morph into not-tight-what-so-ever connections. Loose joints take much, much longer to trip a breaker- unlike a simple short circuit- resulting in lots-o-heat which breakers are actually designed to tolerate for a time because this mimics a resistance load like a stove, microwave, coffee maker, etc. Basically, the slower a circuit heats up, the longer it takes for the breaker to trip. Oh, don’t worry about this whole “backstabbing” thing, the receptacle in the picture is a GFCI, which cannot be wired this way- it actually has a metal clamp inside that is tightened via the screw- it only appears to be The Dreaded Backstab. Occasionally though, one will insert the wire on the opposite side of the clamp such that rotating the fastener will not tighten down on the wire, leaving it up to chance as far as any worthwhile contact is concerned. Absolutely worthless under load, mostly. As far as polarity goes, ditch your current plug in tester for a model with a button on top- (GFI tester) if you plug it in to the GFCI outlet and it “trips”(the test button on the receptacle pops out) polarity is good. And….I’m spent. Hope this is helpful, thanks for your blog!

Gary

You Said: “Nothing else was plugged into any other outlet in my RV except bathroom night light and polarity tester.” You have no need to plug your polarity tester into a circuit unless you are testing or troubleshooting. Polarity doesn’t change except in DC power situations. Another observation is that, you said the coffee maker was plugged in to that receptacle but, in your photo the polarity tester is plugged into it. The fire started in the lower outlet where the polarity tester is plugged into. What outlet was the coffee maker plugged into? Editor’s note: Guys, don’t make a point about AC. We get it.

Gary

Okay Jennifer,
Judging from your Blog, some of my posts never made it. I am concerned for your safety. Electricity kills. I have seen manufactured homes burn and it is horrific.

1. The place you plug into, we will assume hired a CERTIFIED Electrician to wire up the site. If not, and there is an electrical issue, they have a huge liability.

2.Were you on Commercial power or on the inverter when this situation occurred? The reason I ask, is the “Rig” you demonstrated with the Alligator Clips from the batteries to the inverter to the extension cord through the window in your own admission is crude. Big Problem! This situation could have been “sell-induced”. Afterall, you mention that you couldn’t remember to check polarity when you pull in to a new site. Am I making an sense?….BTW, I am just trying to help. I will talk to you like my own Daughter or Sister. Don’t create a fire trap for yourself trying to be self sufficient. Life is too valuable. Please be careful with electrical systems. They can be deadly in untrained hands.

I enjoy your Blog and want to continue reading your posts.

I have a ton of things to say but, I am biting my tongue.

Gary

Fred Wishnie

I suspect the problem is the power coming in to your rig, not inside.
Time for a licensed electrician! It’s really not worth playing with yourself. A little knowledge can be a very dangerous thing.
Let us know how it turns out.
Fred

Cyn

Wow, I know nothing of electrical functions, but I do have to say I’m very grateful that this was NOT worse! It had to be frightening when the extinguisher didn’t work either. Glad you & your little RV are ok. I hope you can get it fixed soon.
Take care –

Jeff

make that…EVER going to be regular again?

Don Morgan

If you can’t find the wire gauge info that is imprinted on the wire itself then you will have to assume by the circuit breaker rating as to what gauge the wire is 15 amp #14 wire 20 amp #12 wire. Make sure when you replace the outlet that you terminate the wire by wrapping them around the screws and don’t use the quick wire holes on the back, this is know to cause this type of problem.

Spring electrician

Looks like wires that worked loose. You need to replace the outlet and fire extiguisher, and double-check the wires and outlet box to see if they were damged in the fire. 14 guage wire is fine for 20 amps for short runs, the house code just assumes it will be more than 20 feet long and requires 12 guage wire.

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